Heidi-ho, Heidi-ho - Around Panama City We Go

It was with great anticipation that I awaited Heidi’s arrival, and an even greater excitement that marked my first sighting of her beautiful, smiling face.  She settled in at the hostel, we grabbed a quick lunch in our surrounding ‘very local’ neighborhood, and then were off to explore!

Heidi & The Bee

Boats Waiting To Enter The Canal

First destination was the Panama Canal, which was built in 1914.  We took a couple of local bus rides on brightly painted school busses out to the Canal, it all went pretty smoothly due to lots and lots of questions asked by us along the way.  We arrived at the Miraflores Locks and went out to the observation decks to check it out.

It was pretty interesting watching the huge ships pass through.  There are a series of ‘locks’ which they fill up with fresh water and drain, rather quickly, to allow these ships to smoothly access the next level and pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific, or vice versa.

  

Heidi told me that the cheapest Panama Canal crossing paid was $0.38 by a man swimming through in the 1920’s.  I guess I never really thought about how much it would cost, but it’s a pretty penny.  $150–$250 thousand dollars for a large cargo ship to pass through, and a personal sailboat passage will set you back anywhere from $500 to $1,500.  

After the canal we took the bus back to Albrook Mall, which is an insanely huge shopping mall, (Metrotown Style for my Van friends) and after speaking with some very nice and helpful women in a book store, we decided to head to Mirabella for dinner and drinks.  Cuba Libre’s and cuisine ensued…  

Big Red!

On day 2 with Heidi we checked out the Amador Causway, which is three Islands linked by a road off the coast - Isla Naos, Isla Perico and Isla Flamenco.  We road ‘Big Red’ up and down the entire length of the causeway, taking in more spectacular views of the Downtown City, Casco Viejo, and the Bridge of the Americas.  Big Red didn’t exactly make the journey easy…so we stopped for some well-deserved beers and patacones (fried plantains).

Re-fueled, we spent some time in the Smithsonian Aquarium and Nature Center; I fell in love with the Porcupine Fish, and Heidi saw her first sloth in its natural habitat.  We also spotted numerous iguanas perched in the trees in a seemingly rabid raccoon.

Panama City, it’s a wrap…next destination San Blas and Colombia!  

Hola Panama City

There was only one truly memorable moment on my seven hour bus journey back to Panama City.  This was the sight of a massive waterfall cascading down a heavily treed mountain which seemed to originate in the sky.  It must have been some sort of illusion with a higher peak behind, but it was incredible!

With this thrill in my back pocket I arrived at Hostel Mamallena in the Perejil district of the city.  I was welcomed by a few dogs and a bunch of what I consider unfriendly people; however the place is nice enough with hammocks and a garden area to chill in.

Casco Viejo - Looking Out at a Long Line of Cargo Ships

Casco Viejo - Looking at the Panama City Skyline

I set out to explore Casco Viejo, the colonial style old part of the city, which was built in 1671 and conceived as a walled city to protect its settlers against future pirate attacks.  It was designated a World Heritage Site in 2003 and today is a mix of some derelict and some refurbished structures, all set with the gorgeous backdrop of the Pacific Ocean.  Looking out one can see the impressive Panama City Skyline to one side, and a long line of cargo ships waiting for entrance into the canal to the other.

I started out walking to get there, finding myself feeling further and further lost, I stopped to ask for directions.  Spanish Practice #1: They told me I was far, had gone the wrong way, and it would be best to take a cab as it was a dangerous area.  So I hailed the cab, and quickly was thrust into Spanish Practice #2: I knew the general direction (see Spanish Practice #1), and realized the cab was not going where I had asked…so I had to communicate this and swiftly!  It was all a misunderstanding and the rest of the ride we had a good chat.  Finally I had arrived to Casco Viejo, although I’m sure with a couple extra grey hairs.

Exploring the area was fun - many breathtaking views, placid squares, art galleries and cafes lined the narrow streets.  Working up an appetite, it was time for Spanish Practice #3: asking for a restaurant recommendation from one of the shop keepers.  I communicated that I wanted something delicious but cheap, as I expected most places around there were high priced as it is a fairly touristy area.  I was pointed in the direction of a more local eatery on a side alley and was thankful I had asked.

After my meal I successfully completed the walk home; second times a charm for me people!  It led me through a promenade type street void of cars and filled with fruit and trinket vendors.  It was during this journey that I completed Spanish Practice #4 and Spanish Practice #5 respectively.  

Spanish Practice #4: commenced as I noticed women set-up on the side of the street with extra chairs and side carts of nail polish, how perfect!  I got a much needed toe nail polish change (fuchsia with white tips, which is all the rage here) and chattered with the girl for 20 minutes in the street. 

Spanish Practice #5: quickly followed, and complemented nicely my new pedicure.  I stopped at a magazine stand and picked out a Spanish Glamour magazine.  I told the vendor-ette how I was trying to learn Spanish and planning to read one article per day, she thought this was great and gave me an extra magazine for free!

An Unforgettable Journey from Miami to Panama

Tavelling on a budget means not always taking the most direct route from A to B.  If I had chosen the easiest and expensive route from Miami to Boquete, Panama, I could have done it in 5 hours with one flight and a couple of taxis.  However, in order to arrive in an economical fashion, my trip covered many different legs in a voyage lasting over 24 hours.  Some may be thinking, “AYE - I’ll just spend the money”. 

I would argue that my route left me not only richer in the pocket, but much richer in experience.  If I had taken the easy route I would have missed out on some amazing memories and the people that went along with them.  Not to preach, but it’s an important life lesson, slow down and take it all in!

The first leg of my journey was the public bus from South Beach to the Miami Airport.  I met a wonderful man who was from Mexico, but grew up in Los Angeles.  We chatted about my recent trip to LA and our mutual, newly found love, for scuba diving.  He was on his way to the Bahamas for a scuba vacation.

From Miami I flew to Atlanta, where I had an hour layover.  My hour was spent in the company of Dwight, an Atlanta native who has been to Panama many times.  He drew me a map and wrote down some must see places in Panama.  In addition to the insider tips, it was so nice to have someone to walk and talk with when arriving in Central America and going through customs for the first time.

OK, next was a taxi from the Tocumen International airport to the bus station in Panama City, about a 40 min drive.  Enrique was my favorite person that I encountered along my journey.  Not only was he the first Panamanian I talked to, but the first thing he told me was that I needed to learn, “Quiero las pintas o cervezas”!  Enrique is a 28 year old Panamanian who lives in Panama City; however he studied English and French in Montreal for 10 years, so we bonded over our Canadian ties.  He was born in Boquete, so he told me all about the city and even knew the host family I was to stay with.  I was early for my midnight bus so Enrique gave me a tour of Panama City, a very modern place in architecture and feel.

At midnight I boarded the night bus from Panama City to David, a 7 hour trip.  I was the only tourist on the bus and there was absolutely no English, so I was a little unsure…but it all worked out, I just followed the local’s lead.  I got a little sleep here and there, but it was tough being my first ride and not really knowing what was going on (multiple stops at which officials got on to check ID’s and panhandlers walked the aisles).  Even at midnight outside it was HOT, on the bus…not so much, I was freezing!  The woman beside me saw I was cold and shared her blanket with me.  She didn’t speak any English, she just looked at me wrapped me under her blanket with her, bless her heart. 

I arrived in David at around 7am.  David is the second largest city in Panama, after Panama City.  Boquete, my final destination, was another 30 kilometer away.  The Spanish School arranged for someone to pick me up at the bus terminal in David upon my arrival.  Sounds like the most legit part yet right, hahaha…well it was definitely the most entertaining. 

My driver Felix informed me that he had been notified an hour before (mmhmm) while at the casino drinking rum that he needed to pick me up.  He was happy I was Canadian because I could understand why he smelled!  We drove along, sometimes crawling and sometimes flying, with him continually saying “OH NO, I get fired, I just jump out!”  After which he would come to a stop on the side of the road and start laughing hysterically.  He also wasn’t quite sure where he was supposed to take me, and thought maybe his casa would be best.  He threw out the suggestion that we should just be married, along with a couple other borderline inappropriate ideas, but all in good spirit so I didn’t mind!  

We finally arrived in Boquete and he talked to the school who told him I was to go to my host family’s house not his!  With multiple cheek kisses, he bid me farewell to my Spanish family - Familia Miranda.  Immediately I felt comfortable and knew I was going to love them. 

When Mama Elva, daughter Patrice, and Grandma Yolanda welcomed me into their home with open arms I knew my journey was complete.  And what a memorable journey it was…I wouldn’t change any of it, no matter how long and tiring, for a million bucks!